Sunday 22 January 2017

Sewing Cleo

Greetings friends. I am a lot more upbeat than I was in my last post! Thank you all for your nice comments both here and on IG. To know so many of you have had similar experiences and persevered has been inspiring and reassuring, so many thanks.


Today I am going to share my latest make: Cleo, the newish pattern by Tilly and the Buttons. I made two versions, one too big and one too small, but luckily I've been able to rescue them.

My first version was a toile, to check the fit using the cheapy cord left over from my trousers. Even though I cut this version out at the size that corresponded to my measurements, I couldn't even get it on. Then, my friend Jenny (Silverbellsandcockleshells on IG) suggested unpicking and using smaller seam allowance and that's what I did. It's not roomy, as I think dungarees should be, but it's wearable.


So, having learnt my lesson, I then got my nice fabric out. Although I kept the bib the same for the side seams, I cut out the next one a size up. And would you believe it but it was huge and gapey!! Much cursing ensued, then unpicking and increasing the seam allowance this time!

I love the style, I think the aesthetic suits me. It is also a happy, easy shape to wear, flattering and loose around the tum, perfect for eating in!


The fabric is a sparkly denim with stretch, and perhaps the stretch was why it was too big for me. The sparkles catch the light and shine in the sun, which is fun. I still don't feel I have nailed the fit, and I am going to have one more go in due course, with some gorgeous gold denim from my stash. I fear the green version will not keep its place in my wardrobe, but the denim is a keeper!

If you have made Cleo how did you get on with fit/gaping?
Lou xx

19 comments:

  1. Your Cleo dresses look fab! Love the gorgeous corduroy colour one. My next project will be a corduroy Cleo - I can't wait to make it.

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    1. Hope you have better luck with the fitting than i did. Fingers crossed yours fits first time. xx

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  2. Both your Cleos look good. Regarding fitting, based on my measurements I took my first Cleo in a smidgeon on the waist and got the fit I wanted with no other alteration. With my second Cleo I did not do this, as I thought the fabric I was using had more body than the first and would "stand up" on its own more, but I wish I had taken it in a bit at the waist and hip too. I think it looks fine but I just think it would be a bit better had I done so. So much depends on the fabric you use, I think, and, often, you cannot tell how it will behave until you have made your garment. All adds to the learning experience, I guess. Cleo is a great pattern.

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    1. Totally agree its all learning. I am so happy with the denim dress, but think the green will be going to the charity shop!

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  3. They both look lovely and comfy - definitely worth the effort of playing with your seam allowances! I was tempted by Cleo but don't think it's quite the right shape for me so I'm going to make more of a pinafore style instead

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    1. Yes, you prefer a more fit and flare shape don't you? But you could always add a bib and straps to a skirt pattern.

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  4. Yes I had the same fit problem - made a note to go up a size for the next one. I made two that are too tight actually. The first is a stretch denim so I can get it on ok, and the second in a beautiful vintage needlecord I got from an ebay seller that I am afraid to try on because the first time I did I heard popping sounds!

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  5. Oh,the vagaries of different fabrics - each fabric works differently, so sometimes sizes can be taken as "guides only"! At least you could salvage the first, and as you have discovered, a wide seam allowance does give space should it be needed. Looks lovely, pity we can't see the sparkle .

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    1. I don't know why the camera isn't picking it up. its actually rather pretty in real life!

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  6. You look so great in the Cleo. It was probably worth all the unpicking! I think you are right this style suits you well.

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    1. Thanks I am planning on another very soon. Hopefully fitting first time!

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  7. The denim one looks a better fit and very wearable. I found it too gappy around the sides but I have to cut a bigger size for my arse (standard practice). My next version will be in firmer fabric too because I made the first one in fine needlecord and it can barely hold the weight of the dungaree clips and sticks to my tights - there is still another one in me! Jo x

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    1. I have been living in the denim and the green one has gone! I am planning another too in something heavyweight!

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  8. It's funny how different fabrics affect fit on the same pattern. I'm glad you managed to get both versions to work with a bit of tweaking. The style does indeed suit you and I love the glittery denim!

    Does the pattern suggest staystitching the curved edges of the bib? Other than playing around with seam allowances I can't think how to help with the gaping.

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    1. Actually it doesn't but I think it needs it. It needs to be loose fitting for the style but there is a fine line between loose and unflattering! Happy with the denim though!

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  9. I love these Cleos I keep seeing. I had something similar I made for myself back in the 80's in burgundy cord and I loved it. I was thinking as I remember the fashion first time round maybe I shouldn't try it second time, but they are lovely - I'm tempted!

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  10. Both look fabulous they really suit you! And your new haircut is gorgeous too!

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