Today I am sharing with you my snuggly Grainline Linden sweatshirt. I have sized up by two sizes from my muslin. I wanted a slightly baggier top so I could use it as a jumper layer on top of shirts or tops.
The fabric is gorgeous, dark moss green with flecks of yellow, blue and red scattered throughout. It reminded me of a knitted jumer I had many years ago in the same colour. I bought the fabric from Guthrie and Ghani, and despite having been sewing for three years this was surprisingly my very first online fabric purchase. I had always before been wary on not being able to feel the fabric before I bought, but this is truly scrummy, soft and fleecy on one side and sweatshirting on the other.
Construction-wise, I made this up on my overlocker! For many that won't sound like an achievement, but I am dancing at that! I am getting more confident on it now, though still nervous of how bloomin' fast it goes! It's made the sweatshirt look nice and neat on the inside, which is pleasing.
My only troublesome area was the neckline: it didn't lay flat after my first attempt and I was worried that unpicking would permanently stretch the neck out of shape. Now the neckline is so tightly stretched that the jumper looks like it has little puckers around the neck probably due to the lack of recovery in the fabric.
So my question, experienced friends, is will I ruin the neck if I unpick again? I have enough fabric for another slightly longer neck piece. I probably should have cut the neckpiece on the bias, which I could try. What would you do.? It's been bugging me so badly it's sat neglected on the back of my sewing chair for over two weeks.
i don't think it will be ruined, although I really hate unpicking overlocking. You don't need to cut on the bias, could try and make a new band a little larger - have you given it a steam press? Its amazing what a good steam can do.
ReplyDeleteThink I will try, just cutting a larger band then. Thanks.
DeleteIf your fabric is fairly thick it could probably take another unpicking, but it actually looks fine as is. My first Linden has a lumpy, wavy neckline. It's annoying but doesn't stop me wearing it!
ReplyDeleteYes its fairly robust. Think it will annoy me too much if I don't try.
DeleteI love the Linden. It's such a good pattern. As to whether to unpick or not, I would try the above suggestion of trying some steam on it first to see about the puckering. If that doesn't satisfy you, unpick and re-do. The neckline may stretch out a bit though. I would cut the neckband on the cross grain as that, to my understanding of knit fabrics, has the greatest stretch. Hope that helps!
ReplyDeleteps Only unpick if it really, really bugs you.
The first thing I noticed was the tight neckband which is what you notice I guess. Then I appreciate the lovely fabric and the good fit. Unpicking overlocking is painful but if you use a sharp unpicker and start with the seamline first, then follow up with the overcast on a second run of unpicking it is OK. Listen to something on the radio, in real terms it would be half an hour of your life. You do need to cut a slightly longer neckband, it should be the neckband you are stretching to fit the neck hole not the other way around or rucking the hole to fit the band. I hope you can get round to it, it really will be worth it. I have just cut the funnel neck off a coco dress and added a neckband, then turned it into a long sleeved T because if we are going to bother making our own clothes then I reckon they should be worn because we love them! Good Luck Jo xxxx
ReplyDeletePrepared for the boredom of unpicking! Going to do it.
DeleteI had the same problem with my Linden - I think the neckline pattern piece is sized for ribbing and you need a bigger piece from self-fabric. I unpicked my overlocked neck and recut the neckline piece about three inches longer. I'm delighted with mine now, so I'd give it a go if I were you. Gill x
ReplyDeleteThanks for sharing your experience I was wondering how much to add.
DeleteWow! Fabric is awesome! I hate unpicking serger stitches but there are some youtube videos which show very easy ways at doing it. I have no good advice because I am just crap at necklines on knits (they always seem to stretch and look wrinkly). I would go for it but if you love the fabric, I do think it is lovely as is....
ReplyDeleteHalfway through unpicking, rather bored! But will finish.
DeleteOh it looks lovely Louise! That fabric is amazing. I think you should unpick and redo the neckline if it's always going to annoy you though. I don't think it'll ruin the neckline to unpick it again if you're careful. And if you make the neckband just a few cms longer then it should still keep the neckline in shape but without the puckers? Whatever you do, I think this top is a major WIN! xxx
ReplyDeleteThanks Zoe, great to see you again on Saturday.
DeleteThis looks so good Louise! I've had that issue with neckband pieces a few times and like a few other commenters have mentioned I think it may be that if you use ribbing it's got more stretch, with self-fabric binding I usually cut longer than it recommends. Also I wonder if maybe doing the neck on the sewing machine might be easier as you could go a bit slower - though maybe that's just my fear of overlockers talking. It's a gorgeous top, whether you unpick or not it still looks great!
ReplyDeleteYou are completely right I think the pattern piece is for ribbing. Will have to remember this next time I make it.
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