The Refashioners Challenge and The Stylish Dress book

Hi there.  After my last post about my flagging sewjo, I've made an effort to prioritise sewing.  Even if I could only sew every other day for 15 minutes at a time, I felt that was better than not at all.

As I have been making lots of silly mistakes over the Summer, I wanted a project that was easy skill-wise and very little financial risk. Enter Portia Lawrie's Refashioners challenge to create a new garment from jeans. I watched her series with interest, and thought the garments created were outstanding; but, I did feel  a lot of them were rather wasteful in the number of jeans used to create one garment - in some cases nine pairs were used!  Lots of fabric must have ended up in the bin, which I felt rather went against the spirit of refashioning.

I wanted to limit myself to using only one pair of jeans, and I was lucky enough to find a huge pair (size 42 waist) for just three pounds. I felt if I mucked it up, I'd only be wasting three quid and only one pair would end up in fabric recycle. So, worth a go.

As I didn't have the energy to spend hours on a new-to-me pattern or work out free-hand pattern making, I spent some time looking through patterns I have used before, and that were ready to go without alterations. I plumped for Dress D from The Stylish Dress Book. I have made it three times before; it's straightforward to make and I know the shape flatters me.

I unpicked rather than cut the seams, so I was lucky to be able to fit the pattern pieces on the legs. Unpicking also created these funky looking features at the side seams where fabric that was originally within the flat felled seams is now on show! I rather like the effect.

The other features I really like are the dark patches which were originally hidden beneath a pocket. I think having the different tones of blue looks fun.

In an attempt to use as much of the original jeans as possible I re-topstitched one of the pockets and also wanted to use the waistband as the hem - much to my delight it fitted perfectly, I added the little leather tab too, but I'm not sure if that isn't too much?

I am really pleased with this dress; it was a slow process, as I found it hard to motivate myself. I am so glad I did, though, as it feels wonderful to have made something I enjoy wearing. Did you take part in the challenge?  I'd love to see your makes.

Stylish Dress book; box dress D.

Hi there, the sun was shining today and my tulips sparkled in the light.  For the first time in ages, it's actually been warm enough to have blog photos taken without needing to run back indoors for warmth! Of course having said that it did hail heavily over the weekend so who knows!

Looking at my tulips!

This gorgeous little dress is dress D from the stylish dress book. If you haven't got it and you like Japanese style, this is a must have! The pattern was actually the first dress I made.  I recently let out the sides, as I had sewn it with a wide seam allowance; in doing that, I fell in love with this dress all over again.

Fortunately for this dress, I decided to make it at the same time I was going through my stash and scolding myself for having beautiful fabric and not using it up! So, enter this fabulous fabric from the Fabric Godmother. I had bought it at her last open day, and was subsequently scared of it because it was expensive!

Pattern matched pocket for the win!

Well, Josie told me it was ex liberty needlecord and it is so soft that it's actually lovely just to sit and stroke it!  In fact she still has the fabric in stock in a mocha colour-way. But this is cream, mossy green and brown. I did have a brief moment of "should this be a classy skirt?" But, in reality, I have nowhere to wear a fancy skirt, and this is much more me.

This is slightly adapted from the pattern, in that I took 1.5cm out of the centre fold both front and back. I also re-drew the front neckline slightly lower than drafting. This meant changing the facings, but it was no big deal really.

Had I had a solid amount of time, I'm sure I could have whizzed through this dress quite quickly, but I seem only to be able to be able to sew in ten minute chunks at the moment due to kid based distraction!

Well, I am really happy with this dress, it will really come into its own when the sun cranks up the heat, and I can ditch the tights for bare legs and sandals.

I will be back soon with my Sew Over It Vintage Shirt dress, just need to photograph it.

Stylish Dress Book: Dress T

I have wanted to make this dress from The Stylish Dress Book since the day I bought the book. 

It is dress T from the original book, and it is lovely. What put me off for so long was that the neckline looked rather complicated.

It wasn't easy to get my head around making the neckline but I got there. Because I'd been so worried about doing it, when I actually finished, I felt ridiculously proud. And if I did it again I would be confident. This, despite my 8 year old pronouncing it as "rubbish"!  I think he's in a "trying to be cool, aloof and amusing" phase rather than giving his honest opinion - may be wrong though

The pattern is supposed to have a voluptuously gathered skirt, but I didn't have enough fabric! I'd  forgotten to calculate the extra needed for a one directional print fabric. So, I opted for a subtle a-line shape and actually I rather like it.

I also added very simple patch pockets to my dress. Cute yet practical. The design also features gathered cuffs that are bound with the same fabric as the neckline.  I did try it (see below) but I didn't like it as much as the loose bell shape, so I unpicked and went with my gut instinct.

If I made another, I might go for this cuff edging, but with little puff sleeves.

When my dress was almost finished, my sewing blogger friend Danielle over at Ivy Arch posted her latest make. And we have become sewing twins! Find her fantastic dresses here, spot the difference!

The fabric is lovely a sturdy cotton, breathable and light. The print shows lots of little ticket stubs for trains, buses and theatre shows.  It's quite kitsch.

I love my new dress - it has been a pleasure to make and lovely to wear.

My peacock dress

Well, here it is:

I am so pleased with the result: I have a lovely very wearable peacock dress, just like my inspiration dress which I posted about previously, see here: peacock-prettiness.

It is of course Dress S from the Stylish Dress Book Volume 1.  It was not all plain sailing; the most difficult part was getting these adorable cuffs on. I looked at the pictures, read and re-read the instructions but I just couldn't do it.  It took me over an hour just to do one!

And then disaster... it didn't fit!  The cuff was so tight, it just wasn't wearable.  All that effort for nothing.  Sob, sob. I had to unpick it!  I'd cut the size six, and the dress was roomy everywhere other than the cuffs; so, I undid them and just made them about 1 cm longer, faffed about sewing the cuffs back on and finally a great dress. Hurrah!

I love the fact that this has more shapeliness than a regular Japanese-style shift dress, but without any tight fitting around the tum.

The dress was (cuffs notwithstanding) very easy to put together, and I can see more of these dresses fitting in very nicely into my summer wardrobe. If I do make another, I may just opt for an elasticated cuff!

22" zip - so proud!  I've only just stopped avoiding patterns that need zips.  It's not perfect but hey, you gotta start somewhere.

The light gathering around the bust is feminine and flattering for someone like me (with almost no bust!). Overall, I am really happy with how this project came together, from first inspiration through to wearing it out for the first time.  

Peacock prettiness!

I was shopping in Brighton recently with the boys when I saw this beauty in the window of a boutique in the North Laine area.  A beautiful bright green peacock fabric, with a cinched in waist and lightly gathered at the bust.

Having the brats lovelies with me meant I couldn't try it on without fear of them trashing the expensive-looking shop whilst I was in my undies!  But I did go in and have a look.  It was handmade with simple serged seams and unlined.  I thought the peacock fabric was beautiful, but not quite beautiful enough to deserve its £95.00 price tag. I still wanted it though!

Afterwards, I created a peacock inspiration board on pinterest here - a little obsessive, but whatever!

Next up, I found my own peacock fabric from fabricland. A snip at £3.69 pm.

It has a much darker overall colour than the dress that inspired me, but is still very pretty. The pattern I'm going to follow is from The Stylish Dress Book volume 1.  It doesn't have the cinched in waist but I hope this will make it easier to wear.

The instructions suggest sewing it up in silk, which I guess would hang differently; however, I'm hoping the cotton print will hold up well to the task.

There are lots of techniques in this pattern that I'm going to have to deal with: a 22" zip, lots of gathering and beautiful cuffs.  Fingers crossed!

Stylish Dress Book Vol 1. Design Q or... my best make yet!

This is the pleated knit tunic from The Stylish Dress book volume 1 by Tuttle publishing.  And I have to say this is my favourite Japanese pattern book to date.  I LOVE each and every design.

The best thing about this tunic is without doubt the tucks; they are beautiful, and they create such wonderful folds in the fabric.  I am glowing at how mighty fine this garment is.

Now I am not saying it was an easy make.  Knit fabric and I are not exactly best friends. But I was determined to become at least nodding acquaintances with jersey knits.

I think the secret of my success here was... practice.  Here is what my first version looked like.  I made this one last week.  Yes, I know it's really wonky, and the stitching is a disaster, but I am a firm believer in learning from one's mistakes.

As wonky and lopsided as this is, the thrill I got from finishing it was immense, and it will do for bed!  Anyway, no sooner had I finished this than the next was cut out ready to go.  I practised the pleats on scrap fabric as well, and over time I got better.

The result is: I love it.

I can't say I didn't have help: sewing bloggers are marvellous at sharing their knowledge. I learnt so much from everyone's tips and tutorials.  Tilly and the buttons advice is good, and she links to other bloggers with even more advice. Really helpful.

The fabric is really pretty, grey and brown with gold - it is lovely, soft and fluid.  A lot of my ready to wear clothes are jersey, easy to wear and no ironing required. Would I sew jersey again? Yes, yes, yes. I have bought some more fabric in preparation.  But I'll tell you what, I can't wait to sew some nice sturdy non-stretchy cotton.  Bring it on.

The Stylish Dress Book Vol. 3 Design A

Oh no.... I don't like it!  

I worked really hard on it: it is finished with beautiful French seams; it has lovely pleated tucks, and floaty sleeves.

The trouble is it just doesn't feel right; the sleeves look silly on me, like I'm wearing dress up clothes.
 

As I see it I have three options:

1. Unpick the floaty sleeves
2. Cut it up and use the fabric for something else.
3. Charity shop it.

Am I sad or disheartened... no, not a bit.  I really enjoyed making it. And my husband likes it.  Actually, make that 4 options:

4. Make matching trousers and wear them as PJs in bed, that way the hard work won't be wasted.  Now there's an idea.

NB: this post's photographs were taken by my 7-year-old son!

Stylish Dress Book: Design F Jacket.

Oh my word! This is the make of which I am most proud, so far: stress free, straightforward and no sewing disasters.

Huge compliment… my husband likes it.  Though he thinks it’s like something “Mary Berry might wear”!!! Is that bit still complimentary?

The fabric, as per usual, is leftover from my Nan’s stash.  This started life as rather faded curtains and I had to fiddle around with pattern placement to make sure all the fabric was the same colour!  I have more of this fabric left that has been sun faded to a very light turquoise, which I might use at a later date.

The pattern is from Stylish Dress Book (Clothing for Everyday Wear) by Yoshiko Tsukiori.  The instructions are excellent, and provide an easy to see tick list to check you’ve done
 everything and in the right order.

Again, cute little pockets - I’m becoming a real pocket lover!

 
One make later, we have a great jacket and a happy stitcher… now, what next?